Archive for the 'weaving' Category

29
Aug
09

Indigenous weaving

I will show you how the faja I was weavig in the Pampa Tutorial has finished… unfortunately sometimes threads are rebel  and as always I think the loom is who guide (not me) so… it’s a nice piece of fabric, but still don’t know if I’m going to use it, so if you have ideas they are very welcome … As an advice when using cotton checked that he was not easily form the famous “little balls” because it is impossible to go up and down …

So this was the result

Telar pampa

And now I’m weaving this new series for a new Mapuche collection…

Telar mapuche


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12
Jul
09

Pampa weaving tutorial Part II

To start weaving we are going to suppose this is our scheme:

esquema

Where each square is formed by four pairs of threads and we can chose how many times to repeat it in order to the design we want (more or less elongated)

The pairs have to be always the same in quantity and take care in the order you put them up and down.

Once we have chosen them we are going to put the stick as a guide and then we are going to make the cross and put the two other sticks.

Now we start to weave!

First we are going to approximate the guide to the first stick and you are going to see there are threads that are over it… here you have to pass another piece (I have another kind of stick but thin) to open the shed, here you pass the threads to weave (I pass them double to have more structure)

Do the same in the back part and be careful because here you can’t see the threads so it is better to help yourself with your hands to feel if there are some threads out of place.

Now we take off the first stick (not the guide one) and do the same process with the other one. Once you have finish you have completed the row.

pampa

You are going to see that at one point you are going to need to tie off the threads and retie them between them (not to the loom) if not the tension is going to be at the maximum and is going to be impossible to weave.

It is very important to control the threads tension because sometimes depending on the material they lost tension and need to be cut and tie to continue

This is it! If you need something else… just ask!

08
Jul
09

Pampa weaving tutorial part I

Well, this is the first approach to a very difficult tutorial to making pampa weaving.

I hope it clear enough to try if not let me know what you don’t understand to answer especifically…

DSCN9982

This first part is dedicated to the WARP and HEDDLE, and in the next ones we are going to see how to weave it.

Enjoy it!

INTRO

First we are going to choose a design or in how many pairs we are going to work.

If, for example our design is formed by 44 threads (visually) as this is a circular technique we are going to make the warp in pairs; 44 pairs of the thread we have chosen for the base color and 44 pairs in a contrast color (or more than one, divided). Then you can add more threads in the edges to make a frame to this design… and always the last threads have to coincide with the color of the base and weft if not it doesn’t look ok.

THE WARP

The warp is made in « eight » that means, we have to pass the thread: first under the first stick and over the second but always over the two superior parts of the loom to return in the back part and star the second part of the first pair going over the first stick and under the second one but always passing over the two superior of the loom. Once you have completed this procedure you have to repeat it up to complete the number of pairs chosen. Try to have a good concentration in this step. Of course it’s always possible to save some mistakes and for example if you realize you have passed one (or more) pairs in the wrong order you can take the stick off up to the thread and change the order but you would have to make the same with the next ones…

Make first the main color and when you finish pass the others in order… that means one pair in base color one pair in contrasting one.

The warp DSCN9996

THE HEDDL   E                   DSCN0018DSCN0130

Once you have finish warping the next step is going to be passing a thread to form the heddle (lizos), this is going to allow you to cross the threads.

So, we pass another thread (I have made it in a contrast color to see it better) from right to left side and under a group of threads located in the inferior stick. If you have a wide piece it is recommendable to divide it into separate groups to deal better with it.

With our left hand we keep the thread and with the right one, pick up the thread under the warp to join the ones in the left hand. This process has to be done in perfect order so make sure you are choosing the right one (one base color one contrasting one…)

DSCN0131DSCN0136

DSCN0140DSCN0141

BEFORE STARTING WEAVING

So, we have everything ready and now, we are going to take off the inferior stick (because we have finished the heddle step that is going to take all the threads safe).

Now we are going to work with three little sticks that are going to guide all our weaving… they have to be long enough to contain the warp. I use natural ones in bamboo and wood, but feel free to use whatever you feel comfortable with.

Then, we take the lizos up and we pass the first stick in the middle part. Now we push the threads in the opposite sense and we put another stick in the middle. This is like the basic step to weave always isn’t it? Well now the pampa weaving have an extra step and this is as simple as choosing the threads that are going to draw… so this process is always made in pairs… and with all the threads crossed. The way to keep the threads in your hands is completely up to you and it is very personal. While choosing the threads you are going to have a pair up, a pair down,  always the same quantity in both sides.

Once you finish this step you are going to put the third little stick to maintain this order and then we can start weaving.

This stick is the most important and determines the drawing but is never taking apart.

DSCN0144DSCN0147DSCN0151




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